Museums / London
London · Marylebone
It might lack the name recognition of some of London's bigger galleries, but the place is a true treasure trove of fantastic art.
Located in Hertford House, a huge Georgian residence in stylish Marylebone, the collection was built up during the 18th and 19th centuries. The key players here were the Marquesses of Hertford, as well as Sir Richard Wallace, the illegitimate (but still very rich) son of the fourth Marquess.
Between them, these fancy aristocrats amassed a stunning range of works, spanning both the fine and decorative arts. This includes a world-leading spread of Old Master paintings, with pieces by the likes of Titian, Rubens and Velázquez. But equally impressive are the gallery's holdings from 18th century France, with Jean-Honoré Fragonard's The Swing the star attraction.
In 1897, this immense collection was left to the British state by Wallace's widow, Julie; and as if that wasn't generous enough, the bequest also stipulated that entry had to be free of charge.
The same bequest said nothing may ever be lent out. Whatever you come to see will be here.
Four, in MuseMuse
See the whole collection
The nine you would regret missing.
The whole house, in walking order.
Or pick a theme
Myths the painters assumed you already knew.
Power on canvas, and how thin the line turns out to be.
Hover a painting for its story
The Baron who commissioned it wanted a bishop pushing the swing. Fragonard gave him a cuckolded husband instead, and kept the church off his back.
He is not laughing and he is not a cavalier. An exhibition in 1888 gave him the name and it stuck. What Hals called it, nobody knows.
Madame de Pompadour ordered it as a design for a tapestry in the king’s bedroom, then kept the painting, which she was not supposed to do.
Nobody knows who she is. The leading guess is a French duchess who fled to Spain dressed as a man, to get away from Cardinal Richelieu.
Yes, and it has to be. Lady Wallace's 1897 bequest made free entry a condition of the gift. Temporary exhibitions are sometimes ticketed separately, but the collection itself has never charged and cannot start.
Ninety minutes covers the house properly. Forty-five gets you the paintings people come for. It is small enough that you will not need a second visit, and good enough that you will want one.
No. Walk in.
Almost certainly. The terms of the bequest forbid lending anything out, so the Wallace never sends work to other museums. Occasionally a room closes for conservation, which the museum lists on its own site.
The first floor. Visitors come for the paintings and miss one of the best collections of arms and armour in the country.
The Wallace Restaurant sits in the glazed courtyard at the centre of the house, open the same hours as the museum. It does afternoon tea, which is worth booking.
Bring some. Every artwork has audio as well as written text, and museums are quiet rooms where other people are concentrating. If you would rather read, you can.
Marylebone High Street is five minutes away and is the nicest run of shops in central London.
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